The basin soil of Clivia needs to be changed once or twice a year, which can be changed in spring and autumn. If the basin is not changed for a long time, the nutrients in the soil will be exhausted, which will affect the growth of plants in a year.
The only requirement for the flowerpot of Clivia is air permeability. The first choice is pottery basin and clay basin. The best one is high type tube basin. The size of flowerpot is about 3cm from the root system of the plant to the wall of the basin.
When changing the basin, the best scheme is saprophytic soil: Coniferous soil: coarse sand: charcoal = 5:2:2:1, available saprophytic soil (coniferous soil) with incomplete materials: coarse sand = 7:3.
The best time to change basin in autumn is September and October. Before changing basin, water should be cut off in advance according to the size of the original basin, and then change after the soil becomes dry and white, which can reduce the damage of root system.
Pat the wall of the basin with your hand to separate the soil lump and the flowerpot, turn the flowerpot upside down, gently push the soil lump to remove the Clivia, remove the soil attached to the root system, and check.
If there is any empty, shriveled or rotten fleshy root, pull out the whole root directly, smear carbendazim powder or plant ash on the incision, put it in the cool and ventilated place to dry the wound and then put it into the basin.
Prepare a flowerpot of moderate size, pad two tiles at the permeable hole of the basin bottom, press one on the other, do not block the permeable hole, and then pad 3cm thick ceramsite on the basin bottom.
Fill another 5-7cm of tidal soil above the ceramsite (the soil can be mixed with the base fertilizer in advance, usually half a handful of bone meal and cake fertilizer in a gallon basin).
Buckle the dried Clivia in your hand, hold the false bulb, smooth the root system, and fill the root pocket (between the roots) with plain soil, which is the rotten leaf and pine needle soil without fertilizer.
Hold the root system with one hand, slowly put the plant in the center of the flowerpot, and then fill the root system with plain soil. Pay attention not to plug it too tightly, loose it is best.
Finally, fill the pot with the remaining soil, bury the root system 5-7cm, expose the armpit of the lowest leaf, and compact the soil gently along the wall of the pot.
Because we are potting on the damp soil, so don't water or bask in the sun after changing the basin. First, let out the light and ventilate the basin slowly, and then water it 2 days later. After 1 week, it can be maintained normally.
If you don't want to change the basin, you can top up the fertilizer once in autumn, remove the soil on the root system, bury the fried hemp seeds and melon seeds at the edge of the basin to make waist fertilizer, and then backfill the soil and pour it through water.
In order to raise Clivia at home, there are certain requirements for illumination, temperature, watering and fertilization, except for the nutrition of potting soil. Only when we understand its habits can we raise Clivia well.
When watering the Clivia, the first choice is rainwater and river water. The tap water should be dried for 2 days, and then used after removing chlorine. Under normal circumstances, when the soil humidity of Clivia is about 30%, it can be watered.
Among them, the easiest way to judge the water shortage of basin soil is to carry the weight of a flowerpot. It can be watered several times and the soil must be watered thoroughly.
In autumn, the temperature gradually drops, and the Clivia needs to grow rapidly again. You can water it at 9-10 a.m., so that when the temperature drops at night, the water content of basin soil decreases, and the root system is not easy to be damaged.
The fertilization of Clivia is mainly divided into base fertilizer and top dressing. The base fertilizer is the base fertilizer applied when the basin is changed. The top dressing can be applied with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer before flowering, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate, huaduo2, etc.
Fertilize frequently in spring and autumn, less or no fertilizer in winter and summer, and no fertilizer in Clivia seedlings. After the plants grow to two leaves, apply diluted liquid organic fertilizer.
Clivia is afraid of strong light. In summer, the plant should be put in the shade. Spring and autumn are the growth season of Clivia. Only the direct light of noon should be covered, and the sun should be more in other times.
In winter, the light is warm and soft, which needs to be exposed all day long to ensure at least 4 hours of direct light every day. If the outdoor temperature is above 5 ℃, the window can be opened to expose to the sun.
The optimum growth temperature of Clivia is 15 ~ 25 ℃, the growth of Clivia is inhibited below 10 ℃, the growth of Clivia is stopped below 5 ℃, and it is easy to be damaged by freezing below 0 ℃. The temperature of arrow pulling is about 20 ℃.
In addition, in order to grow and bloom, it needs a certain temperature difference between day and night, which can be maintained at 18-25 ℃ in the daytime and 10-15 ℃ in the evening.
Clivia has been raised for four or five years. It doesn't bloom or likes to clip arrows. Most of it is caused by the discomfort of the external environment. As long as we understand it clearly, we can solve it pertinently.
Too strong light in summer and insufficient light in autumn and winter will affect the flowering of Clivia. After October, the plant can be moved to nanyangtai to ensure at least 8 hours of light every day.
High temperature can inhibit flower bud differentiation, while low temperature is beneficial to flower bud formation, which makes plant leaves short, strong and thick. It can enter the room late after October, and let Clivia freeze outside.
Put the potted plants in a low temperature of 5-10 ℃ for 10 days, then move them into the room, put them in the sun, increase the temperature difference between day and night, so that the temperature difference between morning and night is 10 ℃.
In this way, the monarch orchid photosynthesis during the day, crazy accumulation of nutrients, to reduce the temperature at night, slow down the respiration, reduce nutrient consumption, in order to make its rapid flowering.
In the stage of low temperature treatment, water supply should be reduced, and water supply should be restored after moving into the room. Before flowering, potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be poured every half month to promote flowering.
Clivia is the phenomenon that the flower stem is too short and the flower has already blossomed before it reaches out of the leaf, which reduces the ornamental value of the plant and rots at the base of the plant.
The main reason of Clivia's arrow clipping is that the temperature is lower than 15 ℃ when the flower arrow is growing. When the plant is about to draw arrow, it can be prevented in the environment of 20 ℃.
In addition to low temperature, lack of water and fertilizer is also one of the main reasons for the arrow, so we should increase the water supply in the flowering period, and supplement phosphorus and potassium fertilizer before the flowering period to prevent it.
If the leaf sheath is too tight, the blade can be tied with a soft cloth or plastic bag to separate it from the two sides, and the temperature can be kept at 20 ℃ until the arrow is drawn.
If it is caused by the external environment, it can cover the flower bud with a black bag, or put it into a small black house to delay the development of the flower bud and promote its archery.
If it's caused by lack of nutrients, you can mix 2 teaspoons of beer with 50 times of water, spray the leaves of plants or irrigate them into the soil, so as to draw out the arrow.
The leaves of an excellent Clivia should be bright green and the veins of its leaves should be obvious, so as to meet the requirements of "looking sideways at a line and facing squarely like opening a fan", which is precisely related to temperature and light.
If you want the leaves of Clivia to be short, wide and thick, you need to provide appropriate low temperature during the plant growth period. If you want the leaves of Clivia to be bright green and bright, you can also use beer to wipe the leaves.
When wiping the leaves with beer, the cover shall be opened half a day in advance to remove the alcohol gas, the beer shall be mixed with water 20 times, the diluted beer shall be dipped with a soft cloth, and the leaves shall be wiped every half a month.
The leaves of Clivia have strong phototaxis. If the light on both sides of the plant is not uniform, Clivia will grow obliquely like the one with good light.
Therefore, when placing the Clivia, the leaf surface of the plant should be perpendicular to the light, and the basin should be turned 180 ° every 10 days, so as to prevent the leaf from leaning and improve the ornamental of the plant.
For the old leaves that have already grown partial, the old hand can force correction by pulling the leaves, but the new flower is not recommended to try, it is better to wait for the old one to fall off naturally.
For the growing new leaf, it can be corrected by covering part of the leaf and using natural light source. The shading material can be opaque cardboard or tin paper.
Cut the tin paper into a length equal to the width of the blade, fold it in half around the side of the blade, just cover half of the width of the blade, and fix it with a clamp until the blade is back to normal before removing.
The fleshy root of Clivia is fat and unbranched. If it is not watered properly or fertilized excessively, the plant will easily rot. if it is found that the plant has rotten root and rotten heart, it can be saved as long as it is handled properly!
When the Clivia rots slightly, remove the soil from the plant, trim off the rotting root system, wash the root with carbendazim, smear the plant ash on the wound, and then put on the basin again after the wound is dry.
If the root system of Clivia rots completely, take the plant off the soil, cut off all the rotting parts, dry the incision, and then put it into the sand or water moss. Generally, the root can be produced in about 2 weeks.
When the new root of Clivia grows to 2cm long, it can be put into the basin again. After maintenance, it must wait for the soil to turn white before watering. Usually, pay more attention to ventilation and rot prevention.
When the heart of Clivia is slightly rotten, the method of retaining the old leaves can be used for treatment. The rotten part in the middle can be scraped clean with a knife, the heart of the leaf can be washed with the diluted carbendazim, and dried with a paper towel.
Put the potted plant in a cool and ventilated place and control the water properly. About 2 months later, the base will hold new buds and grow into a long head of Clivia. After that, the old leaves can be broken off as appropriate.
If the stems and leaves of Clivia rots completely, but the root system is intact, you can take the plant out of the soil, cut off the rotting part, smear purple Potion on the incision, and air dry the wound.
After the wound is dried, bury the root in the soil again, release the light and wind, control the water and maintain it. As long as the false bulb is OK, it can germinate again in three or four months and become a group of orchids.
There are two kinds of propagation methods of Clivia, that is, splitting and sowing. Splitting is often carried out in spring and autumn when the basin is changed. Sowing should be carried out as the harvest is followed, or the seeds will not be easy to germinate when they are dry.
For Clivia over four years old, there will be sucking buds in the axils of the leaves. When the sucking buds grow to five or six leaves, it means that there are fleshy roots under the sucking buds, which can be divided into plants.
The plants should be divided into two parts: one is to change the basin, the other is to control the water in advance. When the basin soil is dry, the plants should be detached from the soil, the soil lump should be removed, and the new plants with fleshy roots should be cut off from the mother plants with a knife.
When dividing plants, cut off the dry and empty roots by the way, smear carbendazim or charcoal powder on the incision, air dry the wound, and then plant in a pot, the seed plants will bloom after 1-3 years.
It's better to cross pollinate the Clivia after flowering, otherwise the bearing rate is low. Dip the pollen on the stamen with a cotton swab and touch the top of the pistil (with trigeminal shape) lightly to complete pollination.
The fresh fruit of Junzi orchid is green. We should wait for the fruit to turn red and harvest again. If we harvest it too early, the maturity of the seed is not enough, and it cannot germinate.
After harvesting, peel the fruit, take out the yellow and white seeds, soak the seeds in 40 ℃ warm boiled water, and after 24-36 hours, pull out the seeds to dry slightly.
Put the soaked seeds on the water moss, with the seed hole facing down, that is, the end where the seeds sprout, and then bury the seeds lightly with the water moss to ensure that the water moss is moist and does not drip.
The seeds of Clivia can produce radicle in 15-20 days, during which the temperature of 18-25 ℃ is maintained, which is more favorable for seed germination.
After the seeds sprout, sow again. The thickness of covering soil is 2-3 times of the seed diameter. After the Clivia grows a true leaf, increase the light, and grow two true leaves, then transplant and divide into pots.
