In summer, the flower should be placed in a dry, ventilated and dark place, such as the north and East windowsills, under the awning, under the outdoor wall root, or simply in the indoor air-conditioning room.
Florist Kalanchoe is very drought resistant. It grows slowly in summer. Be sure to stop it and water less. Otherwise, it is either rotten root or black rot.
The dormancy period is about 2-3 times a month. The watering should be done in the evening in a basin. After pouring, ventilation must be ensured.
Summer can not be completely lack of light, but not hard sun, a sun withered leaves, 30 degrees above the best to pull a sunscreen, or put in the astigmatism.
Longevity flower is easy to black rot now. To prevent black rot, first, do not water more, second, do well in ventilation, third, the soil should not be too sticky, peat soil plus perlite is the best.
The black rot is not serious. Use a knife to dig out the black part and apply carbendazim on the wound to prevent infection and maintain ventilation.
If the black rot is very serious, only pick up some good branches and start cutting again.
When the temperature drops below 30 ℃, Florist Kalanchoe will wake up from dormancy. At this time, it can be maintained by normal water, fertilizer and light.
The principle of watering is still "no drying, no watering, no watering". In view of the root system is easy to rot, it is better to "hang" under the flowerpot, so as to ensure maximum ventilation after watering.
After autumn, the new leaves of longevous flowers have strong sprouting power. At this time, it is necessary to prune and top them quickly to make them sprout more lateral branches. The more lateral branches, the more pregnant buds, the more flowers will bloom later.
The topping should be carried out from late August to early September, with 2-3 pairs of leaves reserved for each branch and the rest cut off.
Note: do not top again after the Mid Autumn Festival in September, or you will kill the flower buds, and they will not bloom this year!
After cutting, remove the oversized leaves, old leaves, dead leaves, leaves with diseases and insect pests and the leaves in the flowerpot, and increase the ventilation as much as possible.
After pruning, you should have more sun exposure. As long as the temperature is below 30 degrees, you are not afraid of sunburn, but you should be careful of the autumn tiger weather and avoid the hot sun.
During the period just after pruning, nitrogen fertilizer is the main form, and rice washing water diluted after fermentation is poured every 10 days.
Wait until October or so, the plant of Florist Kalanchoe is coming out, and it is about to be pregnant. Change huaduoduo 2 or potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, dilute with water and spray once a week.
With sufficient water and fertilizer, the new buds and leaves will grow faster. By the end of October, the first buds will come out.
After the buds are swollen and the buds are colored, do not apply fertilizer. Properly control the watering and sunshine, and flowers will bloom in succession in December or so.
If Florist Kalanchoe does not bloom all the time, there are three situations:
Only long leaves do not bloom, indicating that nitrogen fertilizer is sufficient and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer is insufficient. After huaduoduo 2 or potassium dihydrogen phosphate is diluted with water, spray leaves or irrigate roots, and there will be flower buds several times in a row.
The plants with long flowers and short sunshine are easy to bloom only when the daily light duration is about 8 hours and the temperature is 15-25 degrees. If the temperature is too high or too low, too long light duration will affect flower bud differentiation.
It takes a long time for longevity flower to bloom, 40 days for a short time and two or three months for a long time. Wait patiently. If you want to bloom in advance, you can try shading.
Shading and flower promoting skills: < /b >
1. Long sunshine first and then short sunshine .
First of all, the seedlings should be exposed to the sun as much as possible for more than 12 hours a day to promote the differentiation of leaf buds; when the seedlings grow up and the plants come out, they should be treated with short sunshine to promote the differentiation of flower buds.
2. Calculate the time.
Blackout should be conducted from September to march of the next year. It takes 7 weeks to breed flower buds and 4-5 weeks to bloom after budding. Therefore, if you want to control flowering on a certain day, you need to conduct blackout treatment 84 days in advance.
3. Replenish water and fat
Before shading and promoting flower, spray high phosphate fertilizer once to promote flower bud differentiation.
4, cover black
Find a black plastic bag, cover it with longevity flower, cover it from about 18:00 to 8:30 the next day (14.5 hours), and try to receive direct sunlight for the rest of the time.
After 40 days of continuous blacking, most plants will have rice sized bracts. After the bracts are colored, about 44 days, stop blacking, and then normal maintenance for 21 days will be able to blossom.
From the top of the vigorous branch, the lower part of 3-4 pairs of leaves was cut as the cuttings, and 2 pairs of leaves were kept at the top of the cuttings, and all the other leaves were removed.
Put the cuttings in a cool and ventilated place to dry the wound, wait for the cut section to form scab, then the cuttings can be cut, which is the fastest rooting state.
Peat soil and perlite are 8:2, soft and breathable, which are suitable for the growth and development of the capillary root of longevity flower.
Soak peat soil and perlite respectively with water that has been dried, and then pour them through with carbendazim solution diluted 1000 times;
The water permeable peat is squeezed with the palms of both hands against each other, so as to squeeze out the excess water in it to the extent that it does not come out of the water basically; the perlite is removed from the froth by the water and then fished out by the filter screen;
Mix the above two cuttings in the proportion of 8:2 (volume ratio) and reserve them evenly.
Put the soil into a cutting tray with a diameter of 5-7cm or a small flowerpot with a diameter of 13cm.
Insert the small section of stem reserved on the cuttings into the soil, not too deep, as long as the stability of the upright branches can be maintained, and pay attention not to let the bottom pair of leaves contact the basin soil.
After cutting, keep astigmatism and ventilation, and observe the state of leaves. If the leaves are wilted and the topsoil is dry, water once, and ventilate immediately after watering.
When the temperature, humidity and ventilation conditions are suitable, rooting can take place in about 10 days.
It will take about 20 days for the root system to grow full, so it's time to move it to a small flowerpot for planting.
The soil is still peat 8 and perlite 2. The flower pot is a common root control basin with a diameter of 12-18cm.
After the soil is loaded into the basin, do not compact it by hand. The bottom of the flowerpot shall be repeatedly bumped on the ground for several times, and the combination of the basin and soil shall be tight.
When the soil in the tray is slightly dry and contracted, gently take out the soil lump and put the seedlings into the basin together with the soil.
After the tide soil is put in the basin, it is put in the place of astigmatism and ventilation to slow down the seedlings, and then it is maintained normally one week later.
Keep enough direct light, the basin surface turns white, the flowerpot becomes light, then water and pervade, wait for the seedlings to grow a pair of new leaves, and after the new leaves grow up, carry out the first coring, as shown in the following figure.
During the growth period of seedlings, two times of coring were carried out. After each coring, a little compound fertilizer with high nitrogen content was added to promote the differentiation of leaf buds and the growth of branches.
After the plants are formed, they will be fertilized with P and K fertilizer, and the thin fertilizer will be applied frequently, and the buds will bloom within 3 months.
1. It will take at least 3 years to cultivate the old pile from the young seedlings. Do not cut it heavily every year, but only twice. Once, cut off the residual flowers after the flowers are withered, and once, top the pile in the early autumn.
In the rest of the time, water control and ventilation, more sunlight, more organic fertilizer, poor flowering capacity of old piles, and sufficient fertilizer and water must be provided.
2. After the branches are lignified, they shall be shaped and trimmed according to their favorite shapes, leaving main branches and pruning redundant branches.
3. The basin soil shall be changed once a year after flower, and the old root and withered root shall be repaired by the way. Enough base fertilizer shall be buried in the basin. After the basin is changed, the growth speed can be obviously accelerated and the old pile can be rejuvenated.
