At this time, the rose is almost finished, pruning the flowers, thinning the dense branches, improving the ventilation performance and avoiding insect diseases. The cuttings are just right now!
1. Cut the branches into 5-8cm segments, and leave 2 leaves in each segment. After cutting, soak the carbendazim solution for a while, and then dry it for 15-20min to prevent black rot.
2. Collect some mineral water bottles and poke holes at the bottom. Cut the top half of the bottle, don't cut it completely, leave a little connection.
3. Prepare the soil. Vermiculite and coconut brick soil (1:1) are used here. Wet the soil first, and then put the rose branches in the bottle.
4. Put it in a cool place without covering the bottle. The cutting environment here is very important, with good ventilation. Generally, it is better to have a north facing windowsill or a shady windowsill, with a little light dissipation.
5. When the soil in the bottle is dry and well watered, remember to spray water around it. If it is always black, it may be caused by ventilation and bacteria. You can pour some carbendazim to make everyone green.
6. Generally, the roots begin to grow about 7 days after cutting. After the obvious roots can be seen with plastic bottles, it means that the roots can be transplanted almost, basically 15-25 days.
7. Before transplanting, the soil should be well prepared. The rose is suitable for the use of nutritive soil with perlite. It can also be mixed with some coconut brick, coconut silk and pine scale soil. It must be air permeable, clean and sanitary, or it is easy to lose all its achievements.
8. The transplanting basin should not be too large, just a small flowerpot. Take out the cuttings and don't hurt the root system. First put the soil in the basin to 1 /2, then put the seedlings on it and continue to cover the soil. It's OK to cover about 3cm without filling the soil.
9. After planting, it is better to put it on the cool and ventilated windowsill, slow down for a week, and then sprinkle some slow-release fertilizer, which can slightly dry the scattered light, and in September, it can be exposed for cultivation, and the whole day.
Jasmine is not afraid of heat. At this time, it is in the growing period, with strong vitality. Cuttings take root the fastest. There are three ways. You can choose one that suits you.
1. Lazy man method: if you have time, spray water near Jasmine every day, and wet the ground. In a word, increase the air humidity around jasmine, and water as little as possible to stimulate it to grow air roots at the branch nodes.
Because of the high humidity in the air and more water than in the soil, the air roots of Jasmine are more and more, and the equal length is obvious, so it can be cut off under the air roots and inserted in the soil for 3-5 days to live, which is very simple.
2. Hydroponics: find a foam board or sponge or flower paste. Put the jasmine branches on the water container and float like this. Do not see the light, change the water every 3 days or so.
The water culture of jasmine is very easy to take root. A lot of white roots come out in about two weeks. The water culture can be used for about 20 days, but it should be raised with sand and watered more first. After half a month or one month of sand cultivation, soil culture shall be changed.
3. Soil culture method: the soil culture method is the simplest, and the previous steps are the same. Trim the branches of jasmine, cut half of the leaves, and soak the solution of carbendazim.
It is better to use the potting soil of the mother plant of jasmine without preparing any soil, because it has already adapted to the potting soil, inserted the soil near the spray wet branches, maintained normally, and the rooting rate is higher than that of looking for the soil again.
How can I grow a hydrangea tree? Anyway, I have to prune it after blooming. I'll cut all the extra branches and make you a big family in half a year. Let your family become a sea of Hydrangea next year.
1. Hydrangea's flowers are about to fail. When the color fades or starts to wither, cut off the branches. Don't be reluctant. Most Hydrangea (except endless summer) only open once a year. They should be cut before August, or they won't bloom next year.
2. Cut the branches of Hydrangea, one pair of leaves, into small sections suitable for cutting. Because the leaves of Hydrangea are large, you can cut 2 /3 of the leaves and leave a little for photosynthesis.
3. Then it is to find soil for cutting. If there are conditions for planting in the ground, it can be cut under the mother plant of Hydrangea, or in a cool place under the tree.
You can also find a foam box or flowerpot to cut, and use sand to do well. It has good air permeability and good ventilation, keeps cool and ventilated, and the branches of Hydrangea will not wither and rot.
4. Remember to spray water and water during cutting. In summer, the temperature and humidity of each house are different. Once the hydrangea is dry, it will wither. However, it is normal for the old leaves to wither and turn yellow. New leaves will grow in the leaf seams, which is the expression of survival.
5. Some old and top cuttings may bloom after they are alive. If you want the small seedlings to grow well, you can cut off the flower buds. I'd rather not cut it, but it's better to cut it off and put it in the water after the flowers bloom, and then give some slow-release fertilizer.
